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Can a Stealth Mom dig into high end artisanal ice cream and not pay the price?

Diane Lilli

The names I spied sounded more like gourmet concoctions dreamt up by innovative chefs in small European villages than ice cream flavors; Olive Oil; Frutti di Bosco and Stracciatella; Fig Saba; and Fairway to Heaven Coffee.

As a Stealth Mom, I sometimes have to fool my own body. I have a severe lactose intolerance, and I am not alone. Many thousands of Americans suffer from this condition, but lucky for them - and me - there is a lovely, simple solution. My doctor turned me on to lactaid tablets, which are a safe way to allow myself some ice cream or other dairy foods.These lactaid products contain lactase, which is the natural enzyme that actually breaks down lactose in dairy products. I just pop one in my mouth with my first bite and voila - I can eat ice cream.

A few weeks ago, walking in Fairway Market, I noticed something new and exciting in the frozen foods aisle.

The names I spied sounded more like gourmet concoctions dreamt up by innovative chefs in small European villages than ice cream flavors; Olive Oil; Frutti di Bosco and Stracciatella; Fig Saba; and Fairway to Heaven Coffee.

Indeed, these are all the newest frozen stars of a new line of gourmet ice cream that is the brainchild of a mad- genius ice cream maker and this tri-state market serving New York, New Jersey and Connecticut. When Fairway Market’s Director ofTrade and Product Development Lori Levy tasted High Road ice cream, she had a brain storm but certainly no brain freeze. She leapt into action, getting her in-house creative speciality food movement pioneer Steve Jenkins, into the ice cream mix.

This is a marriage made in ice cream heaven, since it’s a combination of the fresh, intense ingredients sold at Fairway Market mixed with some fabulous, fascinating flavors.

Turns out this crafted ice cream really is created by a chef - Keith Schroeder. Based out of Atlanta, Keith has become the darling of artisanal ice cream far and wide. He is a truly passionate ice cream chef, and has said he often feels like a “kid in a candy store” when he starts the process of choosing ingredients for his ice cream, called High Road Craft Ice Cream, which is now available via a new partnership with Fairway Market and also sold, featuring different flavors, under his own brand in Atlanta and other spots.

Though High Road - and chef Keith - make their home in Atlanta, this mad genius grew up in Long Island, and had a dream to be in the Fairway Market one day. Now, with this successful launch of his crafted ice cream, his hometown dream has become a lush reality. This ice cream is a hit.

The Fig Saba was my first choice. Sure, I love figs but in ice cream? First of all, the moment I scooped out the ice cream I noticed how creamy it looked.

This unique and addictive ice cream flavor, which turned out to be my favorite, is a wild combination of Fairway’s Italian Saba and Calabrian figs, in syrup. Somehow the surprising figs mixed in that syrup and lush, creamy ice cream are so well paired it truly becomes an instant classic. I had heard Keith said he would eat this flavor for breakfast at his launch party with Fairway, and I mustadmit: I agree.This is not over-the- top sweet but instead offers not only that perfect mouth feel you want in a home-made tasting ice cream but also a gentle, fresh fig taste in every bite.

Never afraid of a food challenge, I waited one day (torture) for my next flavor: the Olive Oil ice cream. This flavor is made with Fairway’s unfiltered extra-virgin olive oil. As an American Italian, I am the product of generations of olive oil lovers. Heck, I even use it for my dry hands (and it works). But in ice cream? Would it work? When I opened the container I saw a lovelyvanilla-likecolor.Thetaste was truly a jolt of freshness, with a subtle underlay of something else that you may not call olive oil, but instead offered up a soft, vanilla-inspired lushness. It was clean tasting, sweet, and the most unique refreshing ice cream flavor I believe I have ever eaten.This is comfort ice cream at its best.

But how did Keith Schroeder

come up with this flavor based on olive oil? How can you successfully invent ice cream with a smooth gorgeous consistency like this, using olive oil and at such a low temperature? It took him time, and some modern molecular gastronomy, and numerous trials, to create this creamy, rich flavor.

The next day - I shared the Frutti di Bosco and Stracciatella with my 12-year old daughter. We both decided to eat the entire container - a pint - and it was lovely.

Every bite was filled with the luscious fruits, all from the Fairway line of course, and this flavor is aclassic.Itwaslikebitinginto a freshly made fruit bowl mixed into ice cream.

Lastly, I took out the Fairway to Heaven Coffee, and shared this one with my 22-year old son, Dan, a triple-threat performer who has grown to love coffee. I also adore coffee but never ever order coffee ice cream. So, I figured I might not enjoy this flavor as much but

lo and behold: there were bits of chewy chocolate inside this flavor! Wow. I can tell you that if you love lattes as much as I do go stock up on this flavor. My son said he could eat it for breakfast - or as a “pick me up”. Somehow, this Fairway to Heaven Coffee ice cream tastes like an incredible Affogato you may taste in Venice, which is a dollop of sweet gelato placed prominently in your espresso.

But what happens next, I asked Lori Levy of Fairway? When is a new delight coming?

“Keith is working on a new fall flavor,” she said. “Saffron pistachio is in the works.”

This delightful, luxurious and truly visionary line of crafted ice cream is something to marvel.

Foodies: this is the real deal. Check out both High Road Craft and Fairway Market and get some of this incredible crafted ice cream. Indulgent, surprising but most of all delicious.


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